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TRAVELOGUE #4 (Parts 1-5 and 9-37)
7-10-2008_2:45PM EST
Well, dear readers, Connecticut was nice. Our van was neither broken into nor stolen, which was pleasant for both of us, and the weather fared nicely throughout our 2 week stay. Melissa's brother Joey was a blast to hang out with (he might say otherwise, but that's only because we paid him so) and we hardly went a day without good food or pirated movies from the internet. Ha! Take that, Hollywood! We stayed at an Artist Co-op in the middle of downtown Middleton, where the visual art was rooted in the weird and extraordinary (as it should be). Expensive private school, Wesleyan, is located here and is fairly unremarkable save for the strange mushrooms growing out of their trees and scenic architecture. Joe, Melissa, Carrie, and I hiked up “The Sleeping Giant”, and painfully reminded each other how physically out of “shape” we all are.
What a view, though! There is a scenic castle built at the top by the Army Core of Engineers back in the 1970's (maybe) and trees a plenty! O'Rourke's diner; major shout-out. They have amazing bread that they bring to your table gratis, plenty of blank wall space to throw a mural up on (if you have the time and the chalk skills), and breakfast sandwiches that satisfy. Apparently the place burned down years ago and the entire city came together, pooling their money and resources to rebuild the thing, even granting the diner a gold key to the city! What does it open? Treasure chests? A door to the water treatment plant? Underground tunnels to the Plymouth Rock Geologic Extravaganza?! Only Brian O'Rourke can answer that...and he's not talking.

We ventured into Manhattan, taking in the Statue of Liberty from afar, in the fog, and the wealthy galleries of Chelsea.
Major highlights: The New York Public Library from Ghostbusters (in all of it's lion statue glory), Alex Grey's Chapel of Sacred Mirrors, Ed Cohen's liquid acrylic bursts of color, and Jeremy Fish's (is that right?) “Seasons of Change” exhibit and cartoonist style rocked the socks out the dry docks' bagel and lox. For real. Yo. We had to cut the trip a bit short, but made up for it in Scrabble fights. The words ran on into the night, and no entendres were spared! Saying goodbye to the Bro-seph, we lit out to Massachusetts to Melissa's uncle's garden center and house. The most beautiful ponds and waterfalls were on display, with Koi the size of a turkey. Giant, mutant Koi, who will have your arm for lunch rather than be fed your measly fish food kernals from a plastic tub. These Koi attack small dogs on a semi-regular basis. The Terrors of Rowley is what they're known as, in small discrete circles whom whisper quietly.
We biked through Boston, stood on the Boston Massacre, Boston Tea-Party, and Boston Stamp Tax Revolt sites, and had a fun time watching swans and little children go crazy at their big green park in the middle of the city.

We visited Danvers, which was known as Salem Village, a rural area of Salem, in the mid-1600's.
There we found the old castle of lost souls, or Danvers Institute for the Insane. Built in the 1800's under the most noble of auspices, it quickly denigrated into a place of hydrotherapy, lobotomies, electro-shock and torture. It was completely over crowded and shut down in the 1970's. It has since turned into luxury condominiums, overlooking the city on Hathorn Hill (named so after Johnathan Hathorn, the prominent judge who presided over the Salem Witch Trials and lived in this very spot!). We visited the coolest comic book store in Salem, of all places, and checked out the spooky witches dungeon. The dungeon wasn't spooky because of the witches, of course, but because of the reminder of how fast a town (or nation) can scapegoat an entire collection of people due to the contagious effects of widespread hysteria. The House of Seven Gables was visited as well, where we got to see Nathaniel Hawthorne's birthplace and residence. Much to our surprise, the author of The Scarlett Letter was himself related to Judge Johnathan Hathorn, have changed the spelling of his name to cover and links to the past for which he was so ashamed! Ha! Ha! Hahahahahahahaha!
Plymouth, Massachusetts! You are an old city! You have the oldest surviving Anglican Church! Your cemetery is cool! Your Plymouth Rock was really more of a pebble that we had to grab away from the neighbor kids, as they were throwing it around over cars in the street and hacky-sacking with it! In one of these pictures is the real Plymouth Rock! Can you guess which one it is?
We drove into Maine on a beautiful 4th of July morning, and stayed on the rock overlooking the coast in York, an old sea town with a gorgeous surf.
We drove through the hoity-toity Hamptons where Summer Vacation had most assuredly “hit“. It appeared as if a mall had exploded somewhere. Acadia National Park, a pristine location found right on an island, was our next stop.
We camped for three nights, taking in the multiple views and down time to catch up on reading, painting, and pork chop grilling. Maine was hard to leave, and is easily among the most scenic of our visits thus far.
We pulled in through Highway 201 Customs, on the Maine/ Quebec borderline, and were detained for 2+ hours due to our suspicious looking van, American Charms and good looks, and overabundance of pepper spray and tequila. Mark these words: enter through some other access point if you're planning on going into a country whose police will speak nothing but French to you while they take your van apart. It will be a thousand times more “quaint”, I assure you. However, you will be able to hold on to your machete and ax, which are obviously only used for chopping wood. It's just your pepper spray that will be taken from you. That said, Quebec is nice and clean. Did I mention it was French? Here's the funny, interesting thing about Melissa and I: we speak no French. We can say: Bonjour, bonsoi, merci, merci beaucois, bon, oui and no. Isn't that delightful?















We headed off to Washington, D.C. afterwards, where parking tickets flow like water, and bureaucrats clog the streets like a corrupted artery filled with cholesterol.







We spent hours in the first floor alone and hadn't seen a minor fraction of what that landmark has to offer. The Capitol Building and Washington Memorial are gigantic, the White House is unobservable from the road, and the rain is very cold and bone penetrating.











We drove on and on through the night, bypassing the 41 dollar a night camping prices of Emittsburg, Maryland, and settled on the “free” community park price in Gettysburg. After waking, we took in breakfast at the Lincoln Diner, where the best pancakes I have yet to eat were served. Melissa and I drove to the nearby Gettysburg Battle Field, where in 1863, three days of Civil War took place.





























































Mammoth Caves National Park, Kentucky! We saw you, we took pictures of you, we shivered in your 54 degree depths and marveled at your Drapery Room of Stalactites/ mites. We took the New Entrance tour, blown wide open in 1912 or so. With the million dollar (no joke) stainless steel staircase descended and mastered, we trudged through the 250 foot depths. I made squeaky bat noises with my teeth and lips, scaring the old lady in front of me. Every single time, she let out an astonished, “Oh! I hear them!” and, “I think there ARE bats here!”. Well, say what you want, reader, it cracked me up. She thought there was a fossilized frog leg on one the cave walls strata. There wasn't. Ammonite: I might have believed. Troglodyte: I would have thought, “Maybe...”. It looked nothing like a frog leg. She deserved it, is what I'm trying to get across.
We set up camp at a nice little place in the park and made s'mores for a late night snack with fireflies to keep us company. S'mores also made their appearance this morning for breakfast, when we awoke out of the trusty and true Starcraft, in the middle of Cicada mating season. Oh yes. It is glorious. We are in Crossville, Tennessee now, seeing some cousins and an uncle of Melissa's on this palatial lake property, grilling half pound burgers and laughing giddily over root-beers. We are crashing here tonight, then it's off to Asheville, North Carolina for a Rilo Kiley (spelling?) concert, and then? It's up the Appalachians! Northwards, Ho!



























TRAVELOGUE# 3.14159etc...
6/10/2008 5:12PM_EST
Nashville: a nice place to see, a great place to return to. Melissa and I spent the following three nights with her friend Kyle, and her close friends, seeing sights and exploring the space. Nashville (or Cashville, as the “hip-gangster-wannabes” refer it as) is the kind of city that has music on every corner block, culture in every shop, and sunburns on every other neck. Green trees everywhere, great microbrews (Blackstone Porter? Can I get an Amen?), and a Parthenon replica that I apparently can't take enough pictures of to pass the afternoon. That last bit was written with sarcasm. Wow, tough, disillusioned crowd. Cheer up.
The foot is healing, slowly, thanks to some wintergreen flavored alcohol (it's green!) and gauze. The next day we waited in a walk-in clinic for 2 mother-loving hours (props to Garth Ennis for the “mother-loving” quote) for a dermatitis diagnosis and nothing to keep us occupied save a “Never Trust A Stranger” daytime movie (documentary? One never knows about these things...) that won the award for Worst Movie Seen on the Road so far. We traipsed across the city like we owned it and finished the night with soup and electronic music making. The next morning we hit a pub and played billiards for a bit, then went to Capital Hill and drank over at the 12th Avenue Taproom until we passed out (at 1:30 AM, drunkards that we are). Morning #2: Banana French Toast and Kayaking down the Harpeth River, thine name is SALVATION! Yes, we took the kayak out after plastic bagging my wounded foot (it still got wet) and lolled down the river, letting it carry us for a few hours. We got booted out by Forest Rangers an hour and a half before the time allotted for our friends canoe rentals, for whatever reasons. Try talking your way out of coming onto the river bank and going home early to a nice, apologetic Tennessee Forest Ranger whose gun is prominently displayed on his hip, and I'll buy you a beer, for, if you succeed, you surely are a smoother talker than I and my associates. World famous Spaghetti and Italian Sausage, garlic bread, and two episodes of the X-Files and the Simpsons Halloween Special XVII, and it's our last night in Nashville with some cool people. Did I mention the drums/ five string electric bass guitar jam session? I didn't? Oh...you should have been there.
TRAVELOGUE#2
6/06/2008 10:57PM_EST
Hey-hey (!) and a well, well, well, also...the 6th day on the road, sitting around in Nashville, Tennessee, and what the heck has happened that's made me relish the lounging and reprieve from the outside? Let's begin.
We left Saint Augustine around noon on Tuesday the 3rd, with all guns blazing, after a great couple of days sight seeing the oldest city in this continent (although the Chamber of Commerce and city signs want me to believe otherwise, however, this area wasn't a nation until the late 1700s!). Bread should be had at the Spanish Bakery for $1.50 (unlike the promised $1.00 per loaf some tour guides will guarantee you to be the correct price) at 10:45AM every morning (also unlike the promised 8:00AM “sharp!” baking of previously mentioned goods). These loaves lasted until Thursday, and tasted mother-loving fantastic with guava butter sold at the sweets store located in one of those many, many historic buildings. The town drips with History's wet presence, crushing the inevitably crashing tide of a Starbucks/ McDonalds weight with a firm “Preservation Ethic and Practice” (Kudos to the National Historic Preservation Act(s) of the 20th Century! Now rich folks get killer views with ancient plumbing!). Seriously, the city's oldest house is beautiful (coquina walls and square architecture) and the Ponce de Leon Hotel (Flagler College now) is vast and filled with spires and brick. The Old Spanish Fort is a prime location to catch swimming dolphin playing around (I started making high-pitched squeaking noises towards them, and they then started jumping higher, offering glimpses of their faces. They love the attention.) and, during the witching hours, a good spot for ghost watching (so saith the Ghost Store proprietor). Other highlight: the vortex of “Ripley's...Believe it or don't believe things you don't want too, because they probably aren't true?!®” was a lit phantasmagoria, however, had we traveled into the tragedy filled parallel dimension out of complete ignorance?
CHAPTER 2: Tragedy Strikes! Signs of a future yet to come? Ripley's® Revenge?!
So we're on the road to Savannah, we sleep in a church parking lot outside of Skidaway Island State Park at 11:30 PM due to exorbitant camping fees, and head out the next morning. Sounds fairly innocuous, right? We head off to the intracoastal waterway, kayak over to CRAB ISLAND, where I promptly and decisively slice my right foot, from ball/ instep up to the space between my large toe and first toe, as I am steering the kayak into the shallow waters to eventually board. My progress was, indeed, halted. First aid occurred, water was purified (thanks to the water purification apparatus from Melissa's Dad, Mike!) and Melissa then succumbed to the tortures of heat exhaustion. She tried to stomach a double quarter pounder, but could only make it through half (Hey, we all have standards, right? There's only so much a person can take in one day. Everyone has their breaking point.) of the terrible “sandwich”. Well, as soon as both parties felt up to the task of continuing onwards, the front right caliper seizes, resulting in another night in the lovely city of Savannah, where a Master Cylinder, rotors (right and left! Hooray!) and brake pads apparently do not come without a steep price tag.
Savannah is a lovely city, with a sweet historic district (check out Tomo Chi-Chi's burial site! Nice park, nice statue.) and it's interesting to watch Chinese freight come in by the mega-ton. It was great to get back on the road, that's all I'm saying. Crossing that Tennessee border into Chattanooga yesterday evening was comforting, cutting through the mountain roads was stunning, and meeting new friends that very night in Nashville has felt destined from the start. More to come in the following nights, weeks, whatever, I'm sure...